ABSTRACT
This study, “Socio-cultural and economic impact of the “Anger” woven fabric production on Kwande people of Benue State” is an attempt to assess the level of the socio-cultural and economic implications that the production and utility of the “Anger” woven fabric has on the Kwande people in Benue State of Nigeria. The research is necessitated by the need to identify, examine and document the social, cultural, and economic impact as well as the production materials and equipment and the various trends in the production of the “Anger” woven fabric on the Kwande people of Benue state. Objectives of the study include: to investigate and analyse the existing production equipment and materials of the “Anger” fabric; identify the various trends in the production of the “Anger” fabric; examine the socio-cultural and economic impact of the “Anger” fabric production on Kwande people; identify constraints on production and suggest possible ways of moving the industry forward for greater recognition beyond local boundaries. Appropriate literature of empirical and conceptual nature was reviewed in line with the research topic and objectives. The descriptive research design was adopted using the cross-sectional survey method, a population of 248,642 (entire Kwande population) was used while the sample size was 384 respondents comprising 74 producers, 110 marketers and 174 consumers. The research instruments used were structured questionnaire, interview schedules and observations. Data for the study was analysed using non-statistical methods presented in frequencies and percentages. The findings of the study include: the production of “Anger” fabric has positively impacted on the economic status of the Kwande people and has shown to be a source of sustainable livelihood and income generation; the production and utility of the “Anger” fabric among the Kwande people has impacted immensely on the socio-cultural life of the people; there is a paradigm shift from the use of indigenous (local) raw materials for the production of the “Anger” fabric to the industrial (foreign) raw materials; in spite of the shift from local materials for the production of the “Anger” fabric to the foreign or industrial materials, the Tiv textile industry has maintained its doggedness in preservation of the weaving machinery (the horizontal loom/accessories). Major constraints that militate against the production of the “Anger” fabric were identified among others as: lack of sound capital base and unregulated practice. It has been concluded that, as much as the “Anger” woven fabric production has impacted quite positively on the socio-cultural and economic well being of the Kwande people, some major constraints militate against it. These constraints combine to exalt a lot of strain on the performance of the industry and if not checked can strangulate it in the final analysis. Recommendations for the study included among others: government should provide loan/credit facilities for the practitioners; there should be regulation of the practice of “Anger” fabric production in the Kwande area by establishing associations and unions where rules and regulations are promulgated to safeguard acceptable practice.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Title Page – – – – – – – – – – i
Declaration – – – – – – – – – – ii
Certification – – – – – – – – – – – iii
Dedication- – – – – – – – – – – iv
Acknowledgements – – – – – – – – – — v
Abstract – – – – – – – – – – – vii
Table of Contents – – – – – – – – – viii
List of Tables- – – – – – – – – – – xiii
List of Figures – – – – – – – – – – xvii
List of Plates – – – – – – – – – – – xviii
List of Appendices- – – – – – – – – – xx
List of Abbreviations- – – – – – – – – – xxi
Definition of Terms – – – – – – – – – xxii
CHAPTER ONE
1.0 INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background of the Study – – – – – – – 1
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1.2 Statement of the Problem – – – – – – – 4
1.3 Aims/Objectives of the Study – – – – – – – 5
1.4 Research Questions – – – – – – – – 5
1.5 Scope and Delimitation of the Study- – – – – – – 5
1.6 Justification- – – – – – – – – – 6
1.7 Basic Assumptions- – – – – – – – – 7
1.8 Significance of the study – – – – – – – 7
CHAPTER TWO
2.0 REVIEEW OF RELATED LITERATURE
2.1 Introduction- – – – – – – – – – 9
2.2 Weaving 🙁 A conceptual Framework) – – – – – – 9
2.2.1 Types of weaving – – – – – – – – 11
2.3 Historical Developments in Weaving – – – – – – 14
2.3.1 The prehistoric origin of weaving – – – – – – 15
2.3.2 Textile (Weaving) production in Nigeria – – – – – 17
2.3.3 Origins and evolution of textile production among the Tiv – – – 19
2.4 The “Anger” Woven Fabric – – – – – – – 22
2.4.1 Anger-U-Ichengeigbee – – – – – – – – 24
2.4.2 Ityo-Anger – – – – – – – – – 25
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2.5 Trends in the Production of the “Anger” Fabric – – – – 28
2.6 Machinery for Production – – – – – – – 30
2.6.1 Types of looms used by the Kwande people – – – – – 30
2.7 Raw Materials for Production – – – – – – – 35
2.7.1 Fibres – – – – – – – – – – 36
2.7.2 Dyes – – – – – – – – – – 37
2.8 Production Processes of the “Anger” – – – – – – 39
2.8.1 Cotton growing/yarn construction – – – – – – 39
2.8.2 Warping the narrow horizontal loom – – – – – – 41
2.8.3 Setting up the horizontal loom – – – – – – 42
2.8.4 Weaving on the arrow band loom – – – – – – 44
2.9 Utility of the “Anger” Woven Fabric – – – – – – 47
2.9.1 Socio-cultural functions of the “Anger” woven fabric – – – 48
2.9.2 Economic functions of the “Anger” woven fabric – – – – 60
CHAPTER THREE
3.0 RESEACH METHODOLOGY
3.1 Introduction – – – – – – – – – 66
3.2 Research Design – – – – – – – – 66
3.3 Area of the Study – – – – – – – – 67
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3.3.1 Geographical location of Kwande – – – – – – 68
3.3.2 Occupation – – – – – – – – – 69
3.3.3 Markets – – – – – – – – – – 69
3.3.4 Religion – – – – – – – – – – 70
3.4 Population of the Study – – – – – – – – 70
3.5 Sample and Sampling Techniques – – – – – – 70
3.6 Instruments for Data Collection – – – – – – 71
3.6.1 Validity of the instrument – – – – – – – 72
3.6.2 Pilot study – – – – – – – – – 72
3.7 Administration of the Instrument – – – – – – 73
3.8 Procedure for Data Analysis – – – – – – – 74
CHAPTER FOUR
4.0 DATA PRESENTATION, ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION
4.1 Introduction – – – – – – – – – – 75
4.2 Description of Study Variables – – – – – – – 76
4.2.1 Producers‟ responses. – – – – – – – – 76
4.2.2 Marketers‟ responses- – – – – – – – – 102
4.2.3 Consumers‟ responses- – — – – – – – – 117
4.3 Answers to Research Questions – – – – – – – 127
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4.3.1 Research question 1- – – – – – – – – 127
4.3.2 Research question 2- – – – – – – – – 128
4.3.3 Research question 3- – – – – – – – – 130
4.3.4 Research question 4- – – – – – – – – 136
4.4 Major Findings of the Research- – – – – – – 140
4.5 Discussion of Findings – – – – – – – – – 141
CHAPTERB FIVE
5.0 SUMMARY, CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS
5.1 Summary- – – – – – – – – – 144
5.1.1 Summary of research findings – – – – – – – 144
5.2 Conclusion – – – – – – – – – – 145
5.3 Recommendations – – – – – – – – – 146
RREFERENCES- – – – – – – – – – 149
APPENDICES- – – – – – – – – – 158
CHAPTER ONE
I.0 INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background of the Study.
The use of textiles by humankind predates the human society itself. Long before man started to settle down in clusters (hamlets, villages and towns) he had the need of food, clothing and shelter. The clothing need of man has been satisfied over time through a variety of textiles (woven, knitted, felted and so on), from the very crude to the now sophisticated types. The most important of these all is of course, the woven textiles. As reported by Kureave and Audu (2005), woven textiles are not only the earliest types, but also the most important and most commonly used the world over. They are principally used for the purposes of covering nakedness, adornment of the body, identification and so on. Most importantly, woven textiles are found to shape the social, cultural and economic lives of many ethnic groups and societies of the world.
The history of woven textiles like any other craft seems to be lost in time. Ali, (2010) and Ada, (2005) stated that the origin and development of loom weaving in any African society is as old as the society itself, but the exact origin is difficult to establish till today. However, it is evident that most cultures of the world practiced weaving in its crude form until the point that man started choosing flexible materials for warp (ends) of fabrics. This gave birth to the loom in order to hold the warp (ends) taut for weaving. As reported by Held, (1973) in Ali, (2010), the first loom most likely consisted of two slates between which one set of yarn was stretched. Since then, weaving has under gone series of developmental stages up to the hi-tech weaving that we have today. It is worthy of note here that traditional weaving (where our study finds relevance) still thrives side by side with modern weaving.
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The Tiv people of Benue State in North Central part of Nigeria have utilized weaving so much so that they have found their cultural identity in one of their traditional fabrics known as the “Anger” (black and white stripped fabric). The Kwande people of Benue State, considered by Gbor, (1978) and Akiga-Sai, (1954) as the cradle of the Tiv and custodians of the Tiv weaving culture have evidently embraced the production and propagation of the “Anger” more than any other group in Tiv land. According to Ingyur, (2010), the history of the adaptation of the craft by the Kwande people is not clear, but it is believed that their ancestors adapted the trade since their departure from Swem Karagbe (the ancestral home of the Tiv), centuries ago. The question of the origin of textile production among the Tiv and by extension the Kwande people is difficult to relate with a satisfactory measure of certainty since literature on early Tiv history is largely silent on this subject matter.
Plate I: Draped Picture of a Contemporary “Anger” Fabric of the Kwande People
Source: The Researcher
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Like any other traditional African society, the Tiv (Kwande people) in Benue State have over time depended on Arts and Crafts of various shades for socio-cultural and economic subsistence. Crafts that have featured prominently in shaping the socio-cultural and economic lives of the Kwande People include: pottery, basketry and mat weaving, wood carving, cloth weaving, dyeing and so on. More than any of these crafts, the Kwande people in Benue State of Nigeria have depended on cloth weaving (especially the “Anger” woven fabric) as per the forgoing for centuries. The “Anger” fabric has since been adapted by the Tiv as their cultural symbol. The exact history of the adaptation of the “Anger” by the Tiv as a traditional (cultural) symbol is hazy. However, Ingyur, (2010) insisted that it is as old as the departure from Swem in the Cameroons, centuries ago. Since then, the Tiv and particularly the Kwande people have harnessed the industry for social, cultural and economic advantages. The raw materials for the industry were initially sourced locally among the people and the fabrication of machinery for production as well as the production processes was strictly indigenous. However, with the passage of time, particularly around the 20th century, machine spurn yarns and synthetic threads as well as synthetic dyes mostly of foreign origin became prominent feature in the raw materials for production.
As observed by Hir, (2009), traditional weaving is an important cottage industry among the Tiv speaking people in Benue State. It is one of the enterprises in the state that has been passed from one generation to the other and many of those who engage in the production inherited it as a family business. He further posited that over the years, popular “Anger” designs have made Benue state a notable centre for such fabrics in the country. Most of the Kwande people in Benue state have this industry as their main means of livelihood. However, a good number of them combine the industry with farming and other engagements in government and private sector.
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Though much is attached to the production and utilization of the “Anger” fabric by the Tiv and especially the Kwande people, there seems to be a vague appreciation of the same, due to scarcity of documented studies to that end. Commenting on the forgoing, Igirgi, (2007) observed that besides the obvious manifestation in colour and symbolic use for body adornment, not much is known about Tiv textiles. Equally dismissal is the fact that even the base line history is poorly articulated. Details concerning its historical persistence, its economic relevance, and socio-cultural significance have only been vaguely comprehended. As such, most people observe the industry with only a casual and superficial interest.
After viewing the enormous socio-cultural and economic implications of this industry and seen less of the appreciation of its import and essence via documented studies for enhanced development of the people of Kwande people in Benue State and indeed Nigeria, there arise the need to properly investigate and document the socio-cultural and economic values of the “Anger” fabric, using Kwande Local Government as a case study.
1.2 Statement of the Problem
The “Anger” fabric production seems to have immense socio-cultural and economic implications on the Tiv people in general and the Kwande people in particular. This is evident in the number of the social, cultural and economic activities that the fabric is put to use in the area. The Kwande area, clearly indulge in the production and propagation of the “Anger” fabric more than any other group in Tiv land till date. However, as far as the researcher knows, the Kwande area has not been given its place in terms of coordinated studies of the socio-cultural and economic impact of the production and propagation of the “Anger” fabric.
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The industry among the Kwande people has not been properly studied with the view to document, enhance and develop it into a modern small scale textile industry with modern equipment, materials, good management skills and marketing techniques for the benefit of Kwande and other people of Nigeria. The problem of this study therefore, is to properly asses and document the social, cultural, and economic impact of the production of the “Anger” woven fabric as it affects the Kwande people of Benue state.
1.3 Aim and Objectives of the Study
The study aimed at the examination of the production materials and processes of the “Anger” fabric production as well as its socio-cultural and economic impact on the Kwande people of Benue state.
The specific objectives of the study include to:
I. Investigate and analyse the existing production equipment and materials of the “Anger” fabric.
II. Identify various trends in the production of the “Anger” fabric.
III. Examine the socio-cultural and economic impact of the “Anger” fabric production and utility on the Kwande people.
IV. Identify constraints on production and suggest possible ways of moving the industry forward for greater recognition beyond local boundaries.
1.4 Research Questions
I. What are the existing production equipment and materials of the “Anger” fabric?
II. What are the various trends in the production of the “Anger” fabric?
III. What is the socio-cultural and economic impact of the “Anger” fabric production and utility on Kwande people?
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IV. What are the constraints on production and possible ways of moving the industry forward for greater recognition beyond local boundaries?
1.5 Scope of the Study
The study is centred on the production and utilization of the “Anger” woven fabric among the Kwande people of Benue state. It is equally extended to the assessment of the contributions that the craft has made to the Kwande people of Benue state on the socio-cultural and economic fronts, with the view to enhancing improved and steady development of the industry in the study area and beyond.
The study has been confined to Kwande local government area, due to the prominent position that it occupies in the Tiv indigenous textile industry. Though not the only area that is noted for the production of the Tiv indigenous textiles, Kwande local government area seems to be in the forefront of the practice of the art. It has also formed one of the major centres for the marketing and utilization of the Tiv indigenous textiles, especially the “Anger” woven fabric. Consequently, socio-cultural and economic considerations of the “Anger” woven fabric can conveniently find full expression within the confines of Kwande local government area.
1.6 Justification
Traditional weaving is an important cottage industry among several ethnic groups in Nigeria as it has been found to satisfy not just the clothing needs of the people but has played a central role in shaping their socio-cultural and economic lives. Among the Kwande people of Benue state, the industry has been thriving for decades with the production of the “Anger” fabric (which is the symbol of Tiv cultural identity) forming the rallying point of the industry (Hir, 2009).
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Though much is attached to the production and utility of the “Anger” fabric among the Kwande people of Benue state as per the foregoing, there seems to be a vague appreciation of the same due to scarcity of documented studies. Besides the obvious manifestation in colour and symbolic use for body adornment, not much is known about Tiv textiles (especially “Anger” fabric production as practiced among the Kwande people). Details of its historical persistence, its economic relevance and socio-cultural significance have only been vaguely comprehended. The need to properly study and document the socio-cultural and economic implications of the “Anger” woven fabric production on the Kwande people of Benue state for the appreciation of its import and essence for enhanced production justifies the study.
1.7 Basic Assumptions
This research is anchored on the following assumptions:
1. The “Anger” fabric production and utility has immense socio-cultural and
Economic benefits to the Kwande people of Benue state.
2. The weaving materials and equipment employed for production are modern and of high quality.
3. The quality of products is consistent with traditional standards.
4. There are certain constraints that militate against enhanced production of the “Anger” fabric among the Kwande people.
1.8 Significance of the Study
The significance of this study cuts across technological, economic, social-cultural, and educational frontiers. Technologically, if implemented, findings of this study will ensure greater variety and diversity in the design and fabrication of machinery as well as
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related inputs, thus influencing the overall character of the technological capacity of Kwande, Benue and indeed Nigeria.
On the economic front, its findings will better position the practitioners of the industry (Kwande people) for more productive ventures as well as providing the necessary directions for the patrons of the industry. This will ensure efficiency and self reliance for the practitioners and product satisfaction to the patrons of the industry. Furthermore, since Nigerian governments over time have consistently shown a keen interest in skill acquisition and self reliance to better the life of her citizens as expressed by Dutsenwai, (2010) and seen in programmes like Mass Mobilization for Self-reliance (MAMSER), Better Life for Rural Women (BLRW), Family Economic Advancement Programme (FEAP), and more recently Women For Change Initiative (WCI), the inherent qualities of self reliance, creativity and skill acquisition that are integral parts of the study will in agreement with all these programmes make it more significant.
Again, the wind of cultural re-awakening that is blowing across Tiv land and the rest of Nigeria, which has led to the invocation of several previously forgotten cultural practices (especially practices relating to the use of indigenous textiles) will find the work most instructive.
Educationally, the study will have immense contribution to knowledge on both formal and informal fronts. Its findings will form the bedrock for further researches on the subject matter. Also, since the elements of cultural revival, skill acquisition through indigenous entrepreneurship and self reliance are central to the Government of Nigeria, the findings of the study can be utilized by the academia to formulate guidelines for the government to follow in pursuit of the realization of such goals.
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